After much frustration with air travel, we arrive on tiny Kosrae and check into our tiny cabin, with super air conditioning, a few feet from the water.

In the morning, you mention that it might be fun to try to renew your diving certifications and mention this to the owner.

She finds your old certification online and pronounces you good to go !!

Less than 2 hours later, we share a small motorboat out of the small harbor and around the island.

About 300 ‘Spinner’ dolphins appear all around us, heading in the same direction, jumping up out of the sea on either side, and spinning around joyously in the air.

A truly magical moment.